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DISK-O

Egypt: Giddie-up - Camelboys and Arabians!: by Kevin Custer

If you are looking for an adventure, Egypt is the trip for you! And, if adventure isn't the first thing on your list, this dynamic land will provide you with beautiful sunsets, fascinating history, cool locals, wild pubs, exciting hikes, and much more! There is something here for everyone - and you will definitely leave with some amazing and unbelievable stories!

I began my trip to Egypt with a call to "As You Like It" travel agency. Although the company name might conjure up images of an Asian massage house (so I've been told), they are actually a really good place to get cheap international airline tickets. The catch - sometimes I have to fly as a courier, which means a limit on the amount of check-in luggage I can bring. If you have never flown as a courier before - you should check it out. It's really no big deal, and it can save you tons of cash. Also, remember to bring any student identification you might have - even if it's not yours! Unlike the United States, Egypt will give students discounts on everything from food, to hotels, to train tickets.

Cairo International Airport equals chaos! Civilized life disappeared immediately as I stepped off the plane and into the main corridor of the airport. No computers and no organization, but lots of men armed with automatic weapons. I thought I might have accidentally boarded a plane to Nicaragua! I quickly grabbed my bag and headed outside to grab a cab. My taxi driver, Achmed, whose qualifications to drive consisted of a set of keys and some gas money, sped me off toward downtown Cairo. The streets are extremely over packed with small econo-sized cars and vans. The public buses, packed with smoking Arab-Egyptians, barely make it down the street. Outside the buses hang crazy nonpaying locals who quickly cling to the side doors and roof rack, and then jump off when they reach their destination. The drivers of these matchbox-like cars and buses drive with complete disregard for even the most basic traffic rules or laws - like stopping for a red light ... or a pedestrian! Kind of like highway anarchy - Mad Max would be proud!

I checked into my hotel, settled in, and crashed for the night! I began my first full day in Cairo at 7 a.m. the next morning. I stepped out to the balcony in my hotel room which looked out into to city. The air was warm and dry - I knew it was going to be a hot day! I grabbed a few things and made my way downstairs to begin my tour of Cairo and the Giza Plateau. For about $65, I booked a full day tour that included a personal guide, a driver, a private air-conditioned micro-bus, and entrance fees to various sights. American dollars go a long, long way in Egypt! Prepare to live like royalty!

My tour guide, Amet, spoke perfect English and was very excited to teach me about Egyptian history. As we drove towards the Giza Plateau, the three great pyramids began to appear in the hazy distance. We arrived at the base of the Great Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu) and I could hardly believe my eyes! I was finally standing in front of one of the oldest (2550 BCE!!!) and most amazing structures in the world. Walking up toward the pyramid, I stopped first at the Sphinx. The Sphinx appeared smaller than I had imagined, but it still maintained an incredibly striking appearance. Due to ongoing excavations and renovations, I could only walk around the perimeter of the ancient relic. The sandstone body is extremely worn away by time and weather, while the face is pocked with remnants of various vandals - including the Ottomans who allegedly used the Sphinx¼s face for target practice. Despite the erosion and battle wounds, the Sphinx¼s poised figure and enigmatic smile remain an amazing experience that shouldn't be missed!

I continued my journey up the sandy walkways towards Cheops. Of all the incredible places in the world, there is nothing that compares to the grandeur and intensity of the pyramids! You can spend hours, days, weeks, walking around the pyramids gazing, trying to imagine what they must have looked like 5 thousand years ago! Today, the outer shells of the pyramids look like step blocks, however, they were originally covered in a smooth sandstone casting that would have produced a bright sheen-like faÁade. From a great distance, travelers would have been able to see the huge monuments shining brightly under the sun. The landscaping of this enormous burial ground would have been just as marvelous. All around the pyramids, smaller pyramids and tombs were placed with painful precision and accuracy. You can wander through the dessert sand for hours looking, and almost falling, into old burial chambers - be careful!

Roaming the grounds of the pyramids at Giza are packs of Bedouins. Their job is to harass tourists until they cave in and either take a ride on their camel, take a picture of their camel, or just give them bakhsheesh to leave you alone. Bakhsheesh is like a strange mix of tips and alms. It becomes most useful when used to procure special favors; almost any minor rule can be broken in exchange for bakhsheesh - like upgrading to Business Class on a domestic flight!

While in Egypt, be prepared for constant overly friendly attempts by the locals to get your attention. Whether it is a small shop owner yelling to you from down the street, a felluca owner trying to direct you toward his cousins bike shop, or a young child trying to sell you some cheap trinket found in the trash, they will try their best to get your attention... and then some of your money! This holds true for everyone including the police! I recommend learning at least two Arabic words before going to Egypt: "la shukran," which translated means "no thanks!" These words will work like a secret medieval spell, making beggars and aggressive salesmen disappear almost immediately! Very nice!

A few days later I was off to Luxor and Karnak. For an extra $20 (ahh, bakhsheesh!), I was able to upgrade to a Business Class seat on my flight from Cairo to Luxor- well worth it! The small villages of Luxor and Karnak are unbelievably exquisite and abominable at the same time. One block will have beautiful palm trees and an amazing view of the Nile River, while the next will resemble a SCUD missile testing ground!


I rummaged around a few of the streets and found a bike that I could rent for two days for US$5 and rode out to The Valley of the Kings in just under two and half-hours. The valley, located on the west bank of the Nile, is where many of the great Egyptian kings were buried. Some of the kings buried here include Tutankaman, Thutmoses, Seti, and Ramses I. For a small fee you can purchase a ticket that will let you into all 64 of the tombs, although they usually only keep about half of them open at a time. Most of the tombs are in excellent condition, displaying vivid wall paintings, carvings, artifacts, and the occasional sarcophagus.

Finally, after long hot days trekking under the Egyptian sun, the best place to relax is on board a small felucca. Feluccas (boat in Nubian) have been sailing the Nile for thousands of years. For about US$20, you can rent a felucca and its captain, and drift from temple to temple for about two hours. A sunset viewed on the Nile is worth a million bucks! Pure bliss, I assure you!

If you are interested in learning more about cool things to do in Egypt, try a search using: Khan el-Khalili bazaar, Cities of the dead, Siwa Oasis, Luxor Temple, Saqqara, Memphis, Ancient Thebes, Aswan, and Mummy Museum.

If you want to know more about my travels to these and other places in Egypt, or you have questions about a trip you might be planning, feel free to email me at KevinCuster@scientist.com.

Next issue: Germany: Uber Alles!

 
 
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