If you are looking for an adventure, Egypt is the trip
for you! And, if adventure isn't the first thing on your
list, this dynamic land will provide you with beautiful
sunsets, fascinating history, cool locals, wild pubs,
exciting hikes, and much more! There is something here
for everyone - and you will definitely leave with some
amazing and unbelievable stories!
I began my trip to Egypt with a call to "As You Like
It" travel agency. Although the company name might conjure
up images of an Asian massage house (so I've been told),
they are actually a really good place to get cheap international
airline tickets. The catch - sometimes I have to fly as
a courier, which means a limit on the amount of check-in
luggage I can bring. If you have never flown as a courier
before - you should check it out. It's really no big deal,
and it can save you tons of cash. Also, remember to bring
any student identification you might have - even if it's
not yours! Unlike the United States, Egypt will give students
discounts on everything from food, to hotels, to train
tickets.
Cairo International Airport equals chaos! Civilized life
disappeared immediately as I stepped off the plane and
into the main corridor of the airport. No computers and
no organization, but lots of men armed with automatic
weapons. I thought I might have accidentally boarded a
plane to Nicaragua! I quickly grabbed my bag and headed
outside to grab a cab. My taxi driver, Achmed, whose qualifications
to drive consisted of a set of keys and some gas money,
sped me off toward downtown Cairo. The streets are extremely
over packed with small econo-sized cars and vans. The
public buses, packed with smoking Arab-Egyptians, barely
make it down the street. Outside the buses hang crazy
nonpaying locals who quickly cling to the side doors and
roof rack, and then jump off when they reach their destination.
The drivers of these matchbox-like cars and buses drive
with complete disregard for even the most basic traffic
rules or laws - like stopping for a red light ... or a
pedestrian! Kind of like highway anarchy - Mad Max would
be proud!
I
checked into my hotel, settled in, and crashed for the
night! I began my first full day in Cairo at 7 a.m. the
next morning. I stepped out to the balcony in my hotel
room which looked out into to city. The air was warm and
dry - I knew it was going to be a hot day! I grabbed a
few things and made my way downstairs to begin my tour
of Cairo and the Giza Plateau. For about $65, I booked
a full day tour that included a personal guide, a driver,
a private air-conditioned micro-bus, and entrance fees
to various sights. American dollars go a long, long way
in Egypt! Prepare to live like royalty!
My tour guide, Amet, spoke perfect English and was very
excited to teach me about Egyptian history. As we drove
towards the Giza Plateau, the three great pyramids began
to appear in the hazy distance. We arrived at the base
of the Great Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu) and I could hardly
believe my eyes! I was finally standing in front of one
of the oldest (2550 BCE!!!) and most amazing structures
in the world. Walking up toward the pyramid, I stopped
first at the Sphinx. The Sphinx appeared smaller than
I had imagined, but it still maintained an incredibly
striking appearance. Due to ongoing excavations and renovations,
I could only walk around the perimeter of the ancient
relic. The sandstone body is extremely worn away by time
and weather, while the face is pocked with remnants of
various vandals - including the Ottomans who allegedly
used the Sphinx¼s face for target practice. Despite the
erosion and battle wounds, the Sphinx¼s poised figure
and enigmatic smile remain an amazing experience that
shouldn't be missed!
I continued my journey up the sandy walkways towards
Cheops. Of all the incredible places in the world, there
is nothing that compares to the grandeur and intensity
of the pyramids! You can spend hours, days, weeks, walking
around the pyramids gazing, trying to imagine what they
must have looked like 5 thousand years ago! Today, the
outer shells of the pyramids look like step blocks, however,
they were originally covered in a smooth sandstone casting
that would have produced a bright sheen-like faÁade. From
a great distance, travelers would have been able to see
the huge monuments shining brightly under the sun. The
landscaping of this enormous burial ground would have
been just as marvelous. All around the pyramids, smaller
pyramids and tombs were placed with painful precision
and accuracy. You can wander through the dessert sand
for hours looking, and almost falling, into old burial
chambers - be careful!
Roaming
the grounds of the pyramids at Giza are packs of Bedouins.
Their job is to harass tourists until they cave in and
either take a ride on their camel, take a picture of their
camel, or just give them bakhsheesh to leave you alone.
Bakhsheesh is like a strange mix of tips and alms. It
becomes most useful when used to procure special favors;
almost any minor rule can be broken in exchange for bakhsheesh
- like upgrading to Business Class on a domestic flight!
While in Egypt, be prepared for constant overly friendly
attempts by the locals to get your attention. Whether
it is a small shop owner yelling to you from down the
street, a felluca owner trying to direct you toward his
cousins bike shop, or a young child trying to sell you
some cheap trinket found in the trash, they will try their
best to get your attention... and then some of your money!
This holds true for everyone including the police! I recommend
learning at least two Arabic words before going to Egypt:
"la shukran," which translated means "no thanks!" These
words will work like a secret medieval spell, making beggars
and aggressive salesmen disappear almost immediately!
Very nice!
A few days later I was off to Luxor and Karnak. For an
extra $20 (ahh, bakhsheesh!), I was able to upgrade to
a Business Class seat on my flight from Cairo to Luxor-
well worth it! The small villages of Luxor and Karnak
are unbelievably exquisite and abominable at the same
time. One block will have beautiful palm trees and an
amazing view of the Nile River, while the next will resemble
a SCUD missile testing ground!
I rummaged around a few of the
streets and found a bike that I could rent for two days
for US$5 and rode out to The Valley of the Kings in
just under two and half-hours. The valley, located on
the west bank of the Nile, is where many of the great
Egyptian kings were buried. Some of the kings buried
here include Tutankaman, Thutmoses, Seti, and Ramses
I. For a small fee you can purchase a ticket that will
let you into all 64 of the tombs, although they usually
only keep about half of them open at a time. Most of
the tombs are in excellent condition, displaying vivid
wall paintings, carvings, artifacts, and the occasional
sarcophagus.
Finally, after long hot days trekking under the Egyptian
sun, the best place to relax is on board a small felucca.
Feluccas (boat in Nubian) have been sailing the Nile for
thousands of years. For about US$20, you can rent a felucca
and its captain, and drift from temple to temple for about
two hours. A sunset viewed on the Nile is worth a million
bucks! Pure bliss, I assure you!

If you are interested in learning more about
cool things to do in Egypt, try a search using: Khan el-Khalili
bazaar, Cities of the dead, Siwa Oasis, Luxor Temple,
Saqqara, Memphis, Ancient Thebes, Aswan, and Mummy Museum.
If you want to know more about my travels
to these and other places in Egypt, or you have questions
about a trip you might be planning, feel free to email
me at KevinCuster@scientist.com.
Next issue: Germany: Uber Alles!