Germany is one of the most dynamic countries in the world. Aside form its sordid political history, the "Fatherland" holds some of the most beautiful landscapes and fairytale-like villages. I decided to stay away from the big cities, and spend as much time as possible exploring the smaller villages and towns. My expedition began in Frankfurt -- a nasty, filthy city which I was glad to leave the same day I arrived. I then traveled on to Trier, Saarbrucken, Speyer, Rothenbuerg, Fussen, Dachau, and finally to Munich. The small villages still maintain their old-world romance with picture perfect streams, cobblestone streets, and warm pastel colored cottages which line the walks.

The best part of this trip was learning more about "crazy" King Ludwig and his wild castle building sprees. Ludwig helped Germany maintain its title as the castle-capital of the world. There are literally dozens of amazing castles peppering the Rhineland alone, six of which Ludwig is directly responsible for.

King Ludwig II of Bavaria was born in Nymphenburg Castle outside Munich in 1845. He was the oldest son of King Maximillian II and Queen Marie, and was named after his grandfather, King Ludwig I. Queen Marie bore only two sons and both were considered crazy. Otto, the younger son, developed schizophrenia as a young adult, and was unable to assume the throne after his father's death. Shortly after young Ludwig turned 18, he assumed the royal throne and became King of Bavaria. By the time he was 20, he had already begun his massive building projects. Ludwig used the family fortune to build huge castles - the most famous being Neuschwanstein, in an effort to realize his so-called "insane" dream of creating a fantasyland in an ugly and evil world.

Meanwhile, the rest of the political family was becoming furious with Ludwig's laid back mannerisms and lack of attention to his royal duties.. Ludwig rarely attended important functions and as a result, rumors and conspiracies ensued. Once the Ministers, headed by Prime Minister Lutz, decided that Ludwig "had to go", they went to work planning their coup. The King could only be removed by constitutional reasons - a coup d'etat was out of the question. First they needed a reason for getting the King off the throne. This was an easy choice -- prove he was insane and therefore unfit to rule.

Next on their agenda was a report detailing the King's insanity prepared by important German psychiatrists. This wouldn't be too difficult, since insanity ran in Ludwig's family. His older brother Otto was already diagnosed schizophrenic and insane, and had been kept locked away in an asylum for a number of years. Also, Ludwig exhibited many traits that were considered quite odd for his time (but fairly common place today!). He was shy to the point of mania; at State balls he would order the music to be loud enough to make conversation impossible. He often suffered from "hallucinations;" he would often hear footsteps and voices when nobody else could. When he was alone at dinner, Ludwig was heard chatting away and laughing loudly to unseen guests. He suffered from "strange and sick fantasies". Once he told a friend that he wished to smash a jug over the Queen-mother's head, drag her around by her hair, and stamp on her breasts with his heels. He also told his friend that he had dreamed of pulling King Max (his father) out of his coffin to bash his ears. The King's table manners were reportedly atrocious, and his eating habits were described as 'slovenly' and 'disgusting'. Ludwig behaved more like a 19th century punk rock hero than a 19th century King! He should have been born a hundred years later - I would be a fan!

Finally in 1886, a wild band of upstart nobles and angry bureaucrats were able to imprison Ludwig in Berg Castle (see photo insert). Three days later, King Ludwig and a loyal advisor were found dead in the lake under mysterious circumstances - possibly a failed escape attempt, some hypothesize, even though Ludwig was a first class swimmer. A sad end to his own fairytale life.

King Ludwig left behind six amazing castles: Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau, Linderhof, Falkenstein, the Byzantine Palace, and the Chinese Palace. Of the latter three, Falkenstein was the only one to be completely designed. The latter two were not given names (or at least the names have not survived) and were still under construction at his time of Ludwig's death. Visiting any of the first three castles will give you a strange and telltale look into Ludwig's psyche. You will witness first hand Ludwig's obsession with Wagner operas, his attempt to create a fairy tail-like life, and the relentless drive to build and design the most elegant and elaborate castles ever imagined. For more information about Ludwig's remarkable life, or about places to visit in Germany, take a look at the "Let's Go Budget Travel Series," or send me an email at 1000mph@usa.com.